Impressions of Madison, Wisconsin

Madison, Wisconsin
-- So this is what a real college town is like.
-- I’m in Madison for an academic conference at the University of Wisconsin’s flagship campus.
-- One of the complaints I hear from fellow grad students at UCLA is that Westwood isn’t collegiate. The streets near UCLA have expensive boutiques and trattorio but not the mildewed, moderately priced, locally owned stores that serious students frequent.
-- Madison has ‘em. The main drag of State Street (pictured) features multiple book stores, worn coffee shops, many ethnic restaurants, three stores selling flavored popcorn (! – too plain for flashy L.A.) and used record stores (!! – they still exist?).
-- The university has two faces. Most of it is a green, lakeside campus. But a large part of the university is away from the core, built into the street grid. So, depending on where you are, the university can feel either traditional or urban.
-- It is a rule: Every campus in the United States has at least one grotesque, concrete monolith which some long-retired administrator thought was a good idea.
-- Compared to California campuses, the University of Wisconsin has few East Asian students.
-- There appears to be two or three of everything: two or three brewpubs, two or three sushi places, etc. The Swedish would call it lagom.
-- Madison is a frequent stop for musical acts. Multiple venues showcase live music, new (Five Finger Death Punch) and old (Ace Frehley). Plus, it makes sense to add Madison to a tour, because it’s a logical stop between shows in Chicago and Minneapolis.
-- All the other indicia of educated bobo culture are present. There are libraries and a farmer’s market and museums and a performing arts center. Plus, it’s the state capital, so there’s a Statehouse, places that cater to officials and -- I’m sure -- an undercurrent of political intrigue.
-- So living in Madison wouldn’t be like living in a sleepy town in the Midwest. It would be like living in Berkeley or Austin or Raleigh-Durham, but with more snow.
-- All that being said, Madison is a small city, population 208,000. Drive 20 minutes in any direction, and you’ll see fields with sporadic housing developments.
-- I would be concerned that, after the initial learning curve, the place would seem too tiny. My friends who live there said it takes about two years to get up to speed.
-- But, the University of Wisconsin-Madison is one of the best schools in the country for South Asia studies, so I have to consider it.
-- The rent on one-bedroom apartments ranges from $500 to about $950 a month.
-- Madison appears to have four principal areas: the dense East Side, which has pockets of affluence but is a demographically mixed area; the Downtown area, which is on an isthmus between two lakes; the campus; and the West Side, which is more uniformly affluent and sprawling. The East Side looks more like an older East Coast city; the West Side reminded me of parts of California.
-- You could live without a car in Madison, but it would be a hassle, especially in the winter.
-- It was uncomfortably cold most of the time I was there in late October. I can’t imagine how frigid it must be in February.
-- Good place to hide for a few months and finish writing a book or an academic paper.
Labels: Academic Life, Wisconsin



